Diamond Stud Earrings:  An essential part of every woman’s fine jewelry collection, diamond stud earrings are something that the mother in your life will surely enjoy for years to come.   Pricing on diamond studs depends on several factors such as the total weight of the studs, color, inclusions and overall make or cut of the stones.  Be sure to find a jeweler who will give you “full trade in/upgrade value” for them in case you want to upgrade someday so that you or your Mom can grow into the size that fits best.

Diamond Jackets:  What if the mother in your life already has diamond stud earrings?  Then you’re in luck… consider buying diamond jackets to complement her studs.  Diamond jackets give mom the option of amplifying the look of the studs by placing a removable frame of diamonds around the perimeter.  Diamond jackets can be crafted in many different styles and are typically quite affordable.

Stacking Diamond Bands / Rings:  “Stacking” rings is often an elegant and affordable way to build a look on a finger.   It simply means placing either matching or non-matching diamond bands next to each other.  You can mix and match many different styles of bands, stone colors (both diamond and non-diamond), metal colors (white gold, yellow gold, rose / pink gold, etc.) to create your very own unique look.  Treat mom to a classic addition to her fine jewelry collection that is affordable and she can wear daily.

Diamond Pendant or Necklace:   Diamond pendants and necklaces are a great expression of your love for the mother in your life.  Depending on the style and size of the diamonds used, they can also be affordable Mother’s Day gifts.

Gift Certificate:   A gift certificate is NOT cliché when it involves diamond jewelry.  If you are unsure of what to buy the mother in your life, then a gift certificate is a great choice.  Just be specific with your jeweler as to your comfortable budget range so they will only show items in that range.

Regardless of what you select, fine jewelry as a gift for the mother in your life is always a great choice.  It is possible to combine quality and affordability.  Plus, the look on her face when she opens the box will be something you’ll cherish for years to come.

Round Diamond vs. Cubic Zirconia

The best thing to do is to take the gemstone to a jeweler who has the experience and equipment necessary to verify if the stone is a real, natural diamond (after you’ve tried to identify the rightful owner of course!).   But what if you want to test out your own detective skills first?  Here are a few tests you can perform, keeping in mind that no one test is conclusive:

1. Check the ‘Read-Through’ effect:   If the stone is loose or unmounted you can turn it upside down on a printed piece of paper.  If you cannot read the text through the stone it may be a real diamond.  If the letters are visible, it is probably not a genuine diamond.  This test works best with properly cut round brilliant stone.
2. Try the ‘Fog Test’ (or ‘Breath Test’):  Since diamonds are efficient heat conductors, once you breathe on a real diamond the fog should disperse immediately.  If the stone is a fake diamond the top will stay foggy for a few seconds longer.  This test works best with a clean stone.
3. Test with a Thermal Conductivity Probe (also known as a diamond tester):  As mentioned, diamonds are efficient heat conductors.  Using the thermal test separates most fake diamonds from real diamonds by detecting the rate the stone disperses heat.  This test works on most gemstones, with an exception being synthetic moissanite.  A synthetic moissanite stone may register as a real diamond with the thermal test.
4. 

   Moissanite Doubling

   Use Magnification:  If you have access to a jeweler’s loupe or microscope there are many observations you can make to help determine if the stone is a real diamond.  If the stone passes the heat test, you will want to confirm that it is a real diamond and not a moissanite.  Using magnification, look at the gemstone through one of the bezel or star facets on the crown.  If the stone shows doubling, which means it looks like there are two of each facet line, then it is probably a moissanite.  If you see only one of each facet line (singly refractive) and it passed the heat test then it may be a natural diamond.

Beware that other materials such as Cubic Zirconia (CZ) are also singly refractive.  You can also use magnification to identify a real diamond from a CZ by looking at the girdle (the narrow edge around the circumference of the stone).  Real diamonds will have either a frosted, grainy look or tiny facets around the girdle whereas a CZ will be completely smooth.

Another observation you can make using magnification is whether or not the stone has natural inclusions.  Real diamonds typically have some sort of inclusion(s) that naturally occurred during its growth process.  Cubic Zirconia and other man-made materials are produced in a controlled environment and typically do not exhibit any inclusions.

If you are shopping for diamond jewelry here are a few questions you can ask to confirm the stone you are buying is a real diamond:

• Does the stone have a diamond report or certificate from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), European Gemological Laboratory (EGL) or other laboratory?
• Is the diamond laser inscribed with an identifying number or other unique mark on the girdle?
• Ask to have the inclusions pointed out to you… most real diamonds have some sort of visible inclusions under magnification.

Above all, it is always important to work with a jeweler who you trust and has your best interests in mind.  Who knows, maybe that sparkly little stone that caught your eye will turn out to be real!

Note:  CZ and moissanite are cited as examples because they are the two most prevalent diamond simulants.  Please be aware that there are also other simulants available on the market. 

When a stone is cut to ideal cut diamond proportions, light entering from any direction is fully reflected through the top of the diamond and dispersed into a sparkling and brilliant display.  The term ‘ideal cut diamond’ has to do solely with the cut of a stone, not the diamond’s color, clarity or weight.

Ideal cut is a mathematical formula for cutting diamonds to precise angles and proportions to gain the optimum reflection and refraction of light.  When a diamond is ideally cut, light rays from all sides are bent towards the center of the stone and are reflected back through the top in a blaze of light.  If a diamond is not ideally cut, light will “leak” out through the side or bottom of the diamond. The ideal proportions of a diamond ensure a spectacular balance of brilliance, life and fire.

Symmetry and polish are two other important aspects of the cutting process.  Symmetry, which involves evaluating details of facet shape and placement, can have a significant impact on both appearance and the cut grade.  Even with excellent proportions and symmetry, a poorly polished diamond can look dull and lifeless.

Much has been written about optimal depth and table proportions for round brilliant diamonds.  The bottom line when it comes to selecting a truly beautifully cut round brilliant diamond is that the brilliance is based on complex relationships among all proportion factors.

You simply must place yourself in the hands of a true diamond expert in order to select a properly cut ideal cut diamond.  We invite you to speak with Ascot, where in a dignified atmosphere you will receive an education and be able to compare diamonds from the most meticulous diamond inventory in the world.

Every year brings a fresh wave of trends in engagement ring styles.  Sometimes the number of options out there can be dizzying (in a good way).  The two most important things to keep in mind while ring shopping, are the bride’s personality and style.  Does she lean toward the classic? Does she follow trends and change her mind often? Does she prize her individuality above all else? Often a woman doesn’t fall into just one of those categories.  That’s why it’s important to work with a jewelry professional who will take the time to understand the nuances of the bride’s personality and find an engagement ring that will be the perfect fit.  We’ve narrowed down the top engagement ring trends for 2013 and it seems there is something for everyone!

Halo Diamond Engagement Rings

Halos have been a big trend in engagement rings for a few years.  For 2013 we are seeing the rise of the double halo.  Halos, or frames, are a great way to enhance a center stone, giving the illusion of a larger diamond.

Rose and Yellow Gold Diamond Engagement Rings

For many years now, people have shied away from any metals other than platinum or white gold.  We are now seeing more and more people requesting yellow gold, specifically with a brushed or matte finish, and rose gold.  By taking a classic solitaire style and creating it in rose gold, as one of our clients did, you have an engagement ring that showcases your individuality but has a timeless feel.

Fancy Shape Diamond Engagement Rings

Celebrity rings always influence the trends.  Several celebrities have been spotted with oval shaped diamonds.  Blake Lively’s engagement ring combines two of the coming trends; she has a (massive) light pink oval diamond set in rose gold.  Pears are another popular shape, although definitely not for the bride who desires symmetry above all else.

Vintage Diamond Engagement Rings

Whether it is a true vintage piece or a design with a vintage flair, we are seeing a surge in the popularity of the Art Deco style engagement ring.  A bezel set center stone, mil-grain edges, and the use of sapphires in a ring all contribute to a vintage feel.

Because Ascot Diamonds specializes in custom, hand-crafted jewelry, the sky is truly the limit when it comes to designing your engagement ring.  The great thing about all of these trends is that they will work for any budget.

Top 5 reasons why the holiday season is the perfect time of year to get engaged:

1. She probably won’t suspect anything if you head out to do some holiday shopping.  After all, there are more people on your list than just her, right?!
2. Chivalry is not dead … more than likely, her family is going to be around at some point so it could present the perfect opportunity to ask her parents’ permission for your girlfriend’s hand in marriage.
3. The backdrop from all of the holiday decorations will help set the mood for the happiness and excitement that surrounds a holiday proposal.
4. Having your families’ around when she says “YES!” only makes the season that much more memorable for years to come.  Because the holidays are such a prominent time of year, you will never forget the day you got engaged.
5. Don’t forget about New Years! Presenting her with a diamond engagement ring would be a special way to start off the New Year.

All right, so maybe you’ve decided to pop the question during the holidays… now, how do you propose with the perfect diamond engagement ring you have selected? Here are our top holiday proposal ideas that you may consider:

• Every woman loves receiving a large, elegantly wrapped gift box… fill the box with lots of tissue paper and let her dig through the box to find the ring box along with “Will you marry me?” written on the bottom of the box.  The look on her face should be priceless!
• Using holiday lights, you can draw out the question “Will you marry me?” in your yard or on your roof… we know of someone who did this by a lake and it was a beautiful backdrop for a terrific proposal.
• Place the ring inside of an ornament that you can hang on the tree.  After opening all the gifts on Christmas morning, say that you forgot there is one more gift and point to the ornament on the tree… it should go smoothly from there!
• Purchase a greeting card that allows you to record your own message.  When she opens it, be ready with the diamond engagement ring and get on one knee while the message is playing.
• If you want to have a more public proposal in front of your family & friends, you can always consider a holiday toast that will surely be remembered for many years to come.
• Dress up as Santa Claus, let your girlfriend sit on your knee and ask her what she wants for Christmas… the odds are good that a diamond ring will supersede anything she asks for!

Regardless of how you choose to propose, a proposal during the holiday season will surely add to the joy of the season.  Select your ring and make this season one to remember forever.

So your girlfriend has mentioned she wants a cushion cut diamond engagement ring… now you’re ready to start looking for the perfect ring, right?  Not necessarily…

You may have heard that one cushion cut diamond can look different from the next, but do you know that there are actually different types of cuts of cushions?  If your girlfriend has seen an example of one style of cushion cut and you present her with another, what will be her reaction?  Let’s try to help you avoid that happening by explaining the different types of cushion cut diamonds.

Antique Cushion Cut Diamond

Vintage or antique cushion cut diamonds have fewer, longer facets than their modern counterparts and this style of cutting comes from the early-mid 20^th century.

Typically antique cushions are less brilliant than modern cut cushions because the cutters of that era did not have the skills or technology to optimize brilliance.

These cushions are typically deeper and have a smaller face size to weight ratio.

Antique cushions do have a certain charm because of their antiquity; however, the brilliance will not compare favorably to a properly cut modern cushion.

In addition, a modern cushion (when cut correctly) will have a larger face to weight ratio.

Cushion Brilliant and Cushion Modified Brilliant Cut Diamond

Modern cushion cut diamonds are categorized as either ‘cushion brilliant’ or ‘cushion modified brilliant.’  The GIA differentiates between these two possibilities based on technical faceting criteria and one definition does not guarantee a more brilliant or desirable cushion cut.

Every cushion cut diamond is different.  Work with a trusted source and make your selection based on the brilliance, beauty and personality of each diamond.  Avoid getting too immersed in the technical information and select a stone that is brilliant and speaks to you.

The images below show two cushion cut diamond both described by the GIA as cushion modified brilliant.   The one however is quite different from the other.  Both are gorgeous diamonds and full of life.  Which do you prefer?

Certificates are only part of the full story of any diamond.  Unfortunately, they can often be misleading when considering cushion cuts and other fancy cuts (shapes other than a round).

Ninety-five percent of the cushion cut diamonds our buyers are shown are rejected for multiple reasons, primarily their lack of brilliance or poor cut to maximize weight.  That means that less than 5% of the world’s polished diamonds quality for the Ascot inventory.  But what about the 95% we reject?  It is important to understand that these rejected diamonds do end up being offered for sale elsewhere, typically online or in a retail environment not as focused on quality.

Select from a trusted source that truly cares about the diamonds they own and offer.

The most important advice when purchasing a diamond…

Cushion Comparison (1.71 vs. 1.70 GIA)

So you’re ready to start shopping for a diamond engagement ring?  Congratulations!  But how can you be sure that you’re dealing with a reputable diamond dealer or jewelry store?

Unfortunately, most people do not have the opportunity to sit with a jeweler who truly understands the nuances involved in the selection of a beautiful diamond and properly-crafted engagement ring. Not only can working with the wrong store result in the selection of an inferior diamond, it also can leave you open to being taken advantage of by someone just trying to make a quick sale.

The purpose of this blog is to inform consumers of the most common ‘tricks and scams’ that buyers encounter while shopping for a diamond ring.  We’ve discussed this topic when potential buyers mention they have found a seemingly ‘great deal on a diamond,’ but feel we need to shed light on this information for the general public as well. Here are a few things to lookout for as you go through the process of selecting a diamond engagement ring:

• We often hear stories about jewelers telling potential customers that the grade of a stone is higher than it actually is on the certificate or that a diamond is a GIA certified diamond when it really isn’t.  Inevitably, when asked to produce this stone for the quoted value, the store is unable to do so because ‘it has been sold’ or another excuse is made. Know exactly what you are being quoted on.

• Some stores use special lighting in an attempt to deceive clients by making diamonds appear whiter than they actually are. Ask to see each diamond you are considering in a variety of lighting environments, both inside and outside of the office.  We often see two diamonds that look the same on paper (even on GIA certificates as pictured above) but have vastly different values. There is always a reason. Talking to a professional in the industry can help explain the reason behind these differences.

• Clarity enhanced diamonds are diamonds that have been altered to try and improve their clarity grade or appearance.  Fractured Filled and Laser-Drilled diamonds can easily be slipped past a novice eye and these treatments dramatically decrease the value of a diamond.  GIA does not certify Fractured Filled diamonds and Laser Drilled will be listed on the Key to Symbols on the certificate. Make sure to ask if any non-certified diamonds you are considering are treated and if they are the prices should be adjusted significantly.

• Beware of ring tags that only offer the Total Carat Weight instead of the different weights for the center diamond and other stones in the setting.  Consider this a red flag if these weights are not clearly laid out or explained.  Also, if a tag displays the total diamond weight as a fraction, ask for the exact weights of the center diamond and side stones.

• Inclusions in a diamond can sometimes be hidden underneath one of the prongs if the stone is set in a mounting. Although this may be acceptable if they are delicate, white inclusions that can’t be seen with the naked eye, it is good to ask so you know exactly what you are buying.

We believe that the selection of your diamond and engagement ring should be a pleasurable and rewarding process.  From start to finish, you should feel that you’re being handled with integrity.

One of the many areas in which we differentiate ourselves from regular retail jewelry stores is in how we educate our prospective customers.  We believe that it is important for people to gain knowledge in as many aspects of selecting a truly beautiful diamond as they wish.

With over 30 years of experience in the diamond industry, Ascot knows diamonds. We are here to prevent consumers from being taken advantage of and we always select the finest examples of each diamond grade for our clients to choose from. Every diamond is as unique as a finger print so finding a true professional in the business is crucial when you are purchasing something that will be worn and cherished for a lifetime.

2.18 Carat Princess Cut Diamond in a Platinum Setting

Characteristics of white gold:

Pure fine gold is defined as 24 karat [24k] and is too soft to create jewelry that is practical to wear. As a result fine gold is blended with other metals [alloy] to create either 18k or 14k gold.

18k gold and 14k gold is used to manufacture most fine jewelry.

By adding alloy to fine gold we create a ‘gold based metal’ stronger than fine gold that can be worn and enjoyed without the potential of losing stones or bending.

To create white gold, a blend of different metals is used in an alloy to change the appearance of the gold from yellow to white. This process is effective and the alloys used to create white gold have improved dramatically in recent years.  In order to make a white gold piece ‘extra white’ it is not unusual to plate the finished piece with ‘rhodium’ … a very costly naturally white precious metal.  With regular use it is not unusual for rhodium plating to come off, however this is easily replaced.

2.18 Carat Princess Cut Diamond in a Platinum Setting

This emerald cut diamond engagement ring is from the Catherine Ryder Art Deco collection.

One of the most classic diamond shapes is the emerald cut.  Emerald cut diamonds are either rectangular or square cut stones with beveled corners and step-cut facets.  The underside of an emerald cut diamond is called the pavilion and has layers, called steps.  If an emerald cut diamond has few layers/steps, the Gemological Institute of American (GIA) will call it an emerald cut; however, if it has multiple layers/steps, the GIA will often refer to it strictly as a step-cut.  Although this line can often be a bit blurred, once thing is for certain – the timeless beauty of an emerald cut diamond can be simply breathtaking.

When emerald cut stones are not rectangular, but square, they are often called Asscher cut diamonds.  Asscher cut diamonds, named after a designer who first cut them in the early 1900s, have a similar, classic charm to emerald cut diamonds.  But here, too, the GIA refers to them differently.  They do not recognize the name “Asscher cut” and instead, refers to it as a “cut-cornered square emerald cut or step cut,” or “cut cornered rectangular emerald cut or step cut.”  The GIA describes this stone as a “modified octagonal step cut.”  Naming conventions aside, choosing between a square cut and a slightly rectangular one is purely a matter of taste – both stones are exquisite when cut properly.

This emerald cut diamond engagement ring is from the Catherine Ryder Modena collection.

Because the pavilion of emerald cut diamonds is shallow, they are not as fiery as brilliant cut stones and are not faceted in the style of a brilliant cut.  At the same time, the elegant stepping draws attention to the stone’s clarity.  Asscher cuts, on the other hand, tend to be a bit deeper in the pavillion and have slightly steeper crowns.  Their face measurements, as a result, may be a little smaller but it gives a skilled cutter opportunity to build up many cuts/layers/steps and makes for a more beautiful diamond.  Ascot Diamonds believes that this trade-off is worth it, provided this principle is not taken to the extreme and used as an excuse to make a heavier stone.  As with all step cut diamond engagement rings, when “steps” and “corners” are cut properly, the result can be truly stunning.

This emerald cut diamond engagement ring is from the Catherine Ryder Vendome collection.

How the 4 C’s Affect Your Diamond’s Appraised Value

The Ideal Round Cut Diamond

Color – The more colorless your diamond is, the greater its rarity and value. Color is graded on a spectrum with “D” being the highest, whitest grade (please note that fancy colored diamonds are graded on a different scale).

Clarity – In general, the fewer flaws your diamond has can increase the value of the stone; however, value also has a lot to do with the placement and color of each inclusion. Not all flaws impact equally and a skilled appraiser will be able to discern the inclusions impact on the diamond’s value. Many years of experience are required for a diamond appraisal expert to be able to truly know how the quantity, size and position of the inclusions affect value.

Cut – Over time, the words “cut” and “shape” have taken on similar meanings when it comes to diamonds and this is not necessarily correct. The cut of a diamond relates to how the diamond was cleaved and cut – this is the main factor in determining the amount of fire and brilliance that emit from a diamond. Skilled diamond cutters are true artisans. They study each piece of rough (un-cut) diamond before starting in order to select the shape that will maximize the weight and value of the rough material. Again, only a skilled diamond appraiser who has looked at thousands of diamonds under magnification can truly help to determine if a stone is properly cut.

Carat – Diamond weight is measured by metric carats and priced on the markets on a “per carat” basis. The heavier a diamond, the higher the price per carat. Unfortunately, the “price per carat” reality provokes most diamond cutters to produce heavier-cut material rather than truly focusing on properly cutting each diamond to maximize fire and brilliance. Diamond value is also affected by the overall carat weight relative to face size, cut and brilliance.

In addition to the 4 Cs, experienced diamond appraisers will also take into consideration these factors:

• How rare is the stone and how easy or difficult would it be to replace?
• What is the quality of the diamonds used in the setting?
• What is the quality of the ring’s craftsmanship?
• Does the diamond have fluorescence and, if so, what level?

Retail vs. Replacement Value of Your Diamond

To properly interpret your diamond appraisal you will also need to know if the value is a “retail value” or “retail replacement value.” The difference between the two is important… most insurance companies and diamond laboratories recommend using a retail replacement. This is the amount that insurance companies like to see because it states what would be needed to replace the piece with one of equal quality in today’s market. Retail values tend to be exorbitantly high and result in the insured over-paying in premium for a value that they will never receive anyway if the ring is lost or stolen.

Certified Graduate Gemologists

Finding the right laboratory to appraise your jewelry is a lot like when you purchase a diamond or fine jewelry – select one whom you trust and who truly specializes in the product that you are asking to have appraised. Certified graduate gemologists or graduate graduate appraisers, like those with the American Diamond Laboratory, can give you a detailed, accurate report as well as explain to you how they arrived at the valuation amount of your engagement ring or fine jewelry