One of the most elegant and timeless diamond shapes is the Asscher cut. Nearly 110 years ago, the Asscher cut was designed and patented by Dutch diamond artisan Joseph Asscher. His brother, Abraham Asscher, furthered their company’s fame in 1903 by cleaving the world’s largest diamond at that time, the 997 carat Excelsior diamond, which later became part of Great Britain’s Crown Jewels.
Key Points to Consider when Buying an Asscher Cut Diamond
1. Asscher cut diamonds, as well other step-cut shapes, all tend to hide a diamond’s color. For example, a GIA certified I color Asscher cut diamond may ‘face up’ (appear to the naked eye) as an H, or a grade whiter. With diamond color equating for roughly 55% of a stone’s value, this can be a great advantage to a buyer.
2. It’s also important to know that a truly gorgeous Asscher can tend to be a little deep in the pavilion and have slightly steeper crown angles. This can make the face measurements a bit smaller, but allows room for a skilled cutter to build up many layers/steps, thus making for a more beautiful diamond. It is worth the trade, provided this principle is not taken to the extreme and used as an excuse to make a heavier stone with too much weight left underneath.
3. Because of the ‘clean’ look of an Asscher cut diamond, buyers should tend to lean up on clarity grades. As long as the inclusion is eye-clean, delicate, white and off to the side of the diamond, buyers may be able get away with a clarity grade of SI1 or SI2, but most Asscher cut diamonds are sold with a clarity grade of VS2 or above.
4. The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) does not recognize the shape Asscher; instead, it is typically referred to as a “square emerald cut.” By definition, an emerald cut is a stone that is NOT faceted in the style of a brilliant cut. The underside of an emerald cut (the pavilion) is cut with layers or “steps.” One thing is for sure with all step cut diamonds – when the ‘stepping’ and ‘cut corners’ are done properly, the result can be a truly stunning diamond that will be enjoyed for generations.These are just some of the key points to consider when purchasing an Asscher cut diamond. Because of the complexity involved in cutting a truly exquisite stone, we recommend making sure that you are working with an expert. Unfortunately, most of the Asschers that we are offered from vendors are cut heavy or sloppy in the corners, thus greatly decreasing their fire, brilliance and desirability and never having a chance of being included in our inventory. Be sure you are selecting the right diamond … elevate your buying experience and speak with a personal jeweler with Ascot Diamonds before your next fine jewelry purchase.